Don’t Leave Mexico City WIthout Seeing the Murals Of Diego Rivera

Palacio de Bellas Artes

For the best of Diego Rivera
To understand the modern Mexico, you have to look to the art of Diego Rivera. He was not only one of the main artists involved in the Government sponsored Mexican Mural Movement, he was invited to the USA in 1930 to paint a mural for the City Club of the San Francisco Stock Exchange which led to more American commissions, an exhibition of the MOMA and then his famous series of panels at the Detroit Institute of Arts. His leftist politics got him into some hot water in the States which brought him even more notoriety. At the time, his intriguing third wife certainly gained attention for her exotic looks and style of dress and her strong communist views. She was known mainly as Diego’s wife until the late 70’s when her work was rediscovered and by the 1990’s, the roles had been switched. Diego Rivera was now thought of as the husband of Friday Kahlo but in Mexico City, his stamp covers the city and his murals are glorious.

 Much of Diego Rivera’s best mural work is on display in a variety of government buildings that charge next to nothing to enter and, in some cases, entrance is free. 


The Palacio Nacional

The national palace, where the president’s offices are, requires that one person from each group leave a piece of ID in exchange for a chance to see incredible murals. 

Detail from one of the murals at the Palacio Nacional



Plaza de la Constitución, Centro Historico


El Colegio Nacional de San Ildefonso


The Old college of San Ildefonso hosted 4 seminaries in the 16th century.
They merged and this place was founded in 1583 but acquired the current baroque architecture in the 18th century - it's worth a visit just for the building itself.

Even though most of the murals are not by Rivera, I am including it because he has one in the amphitheater but it’s locked and someone has to let you in to that one and it is still a stunning display of the work of his contemporaries like Jean Charlot, Orozco and Siqueiros. We did not manage to find anyone to let us in to see the Rivera mural but that's just another reason to return.


Mural by Jean Charlot




El Colegio Nacional de San Ildefonso
Closed mon tues 10 to 8pm
Wed-Sunday - 6pm
$45 MXN



Palacio de Bellas Artes

Beautiful murals by Rivera as well as a couple of other wonderful Mexican moralists and a stunning building, in general. There are always concert and dance performances going on here so if you are looking for things to do, check their schedule.




Interior of The Belles Artes
palacio de bellas artes
Juarez, Centro Historico
Closed Monday
Tues to Sunday 10am to 5pm
Free on Sunday otherwise approx $60 MXN



Museo Mural Diego Rivera

This small museum as basically built to house one mural, Dream of a Sunday afternoon in Alameda Central Park painted in 1947
They do have a small gallery space on the second floor 



Calle Balderas and Colon
Closed Mondays, open from 10am to 6pm from Tuesday to Sunday
Approx $30 MXN 



Museo Dolores Olmedo 


This Mexican businesswoman and art collector was a friend and later, his patron. He helped her amass an impressive art collection. Her house is now a museum that houses the largest collection of Rivera’s paintings with close to 150 pieces as well as work by Frida Kahlo and more folk art. Be forwarned, they are pretty uptight about the taking of photos so I have no pictures of the art of the interior of the home/museum. The grounds are beautiful and makes for a lovely excursion to escape the madness of downtown Mexico City. It’s very close to the colourful floating boats at Xochimilco if you want to make a day of it.



Museo Dolores Olmedo



Bust of Rivera at the Dolores Olmedo

Museo Dolores Olmedo
Av Mexico 5843, La Noria, Xochimilco
Closed Monday, open 10am to 6pm all other days
$100 MXN for non Mexicans and free on Tuesdays




Museo Casa Diego Rivera e Frida Kahlo 

Consider going here instead of the insanely crowded Frida Kahlo blue house in Coyoacan. This house was built for them in the affluent neighbourhood of San Angel and was quite controversial at the time. Even today its a clear case of a walnut in a bowl full of smarties. It’s interesting for his collection of folk art and a wonderful glimpse into his studio, his tools as well as his home. it’s never crowded and is absolutely worth a visit for fans of the couple.


Diego Rivera's personal studio in his San Angel home

maquette of the house, designed by Juan O'Gorman



Rivera's collection of Mexican folk art
 





Museo Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo





More paper mache from Rivera's personal collection


small mosaic study in his studio




Studio of Rivera




2 esq. Altavista, Col San Angel Inn
Closed Monday, open 10am to 5:30pm all other days 
$35 MXN and $30 MXN to take photos




Two other spots that I didn't get a chance to visit but come highly recommended:

Secretaria de Educacion Publica
Earlier murals, over 120 individual works, Painted between 1923 and 1928

Enter from Plaza Santo Domingo #31 and follow the passage way to the main building
Open to the public weekdays only

Museo Nacional de Arte (MUNAL)
This building contains a large collection of Rivera’s paintings, including work he produced in Paris while he studied there on a scholarship.

Tacuba 8, Centro Historico
Closed Monday, open 10am to 6pm all other days
$65 MXN and $5 MXN to take photos














Comments

  1. this is very nice i love it. nice contsorp. thank you for the post i just pick some very interesting

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